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Dinner

Slow Sunday Tomato Pasta Worth the Simmer

There is almost nothing to do here except stir occasionally and let time do the work. It is my favourite kind of cooking.

Slow Sunday Tomato Pasta Worth the Simmer

Prep time

10 min

Cook time

60 min

Serves

4 people

Ingredients

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow along photo by photo — every stage below shows exactly what to look for before you move on.

  1. Onion and garlic being prepared on a wooden board
    Step 15 minutes

    Build the pot with almost no prep

    Tip the tinned tomatoes into a heavy pot along with the onion halves, butter, sliced garlic and sugar. There is no sautéing and no browning here — the butter and the long simmer do all the work that a soffritto normally would.

    Use whole tinned tomatoes rather than chopped if you can. Chopped tomatoes are treated with calcium chloride to hold their shape, which stops them breaking down into a silky sauce no matter how long you cook them.

    Tip · A heavy-based pot matters more than the brand of tomatoes; thin pans scorch the sugars at the bottom.

  2. Tomato sauce simmering with a wooden spoon
    Step 260 minutes

    Simmer gently for a full hour

    Bring the pot to the barest simmer — a bubble breaking the surface every second or two, not a rolling boil — and leave it uncovered so the sauce reduces and concentrates.

    Come back every fifteen minutes to crush the softening tomatoes against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon. By the end the sauce should have darkened from bright red to a deeper brick colour, with butter pooling orange at the edges.

  3. Finished tomato sauce being seasoned in the pot
    Step 33 minutes

    Remove the onion and season carefully

    Fish out the onion halves — they have given everything they have to the sauce. Some people chop them and stir them back in; both are correct.

    Season now rather than earlier. An hour of reduction concentrates whatever salt was already in the pot, so seasoning at the start almost always overshoots. Taste, add, taste again.

  4. Rigatoni cooking and ready to be tossed
    Step 410 minutes

    Cook the pasta one minute short

    Boil the rigatoni in well-salted water and pull it a full minute before the package time says. It finishes cooking in the sauce, absorbing flavour instead of water.

    Before draining, scoop out a mugful of the cooking water. That starchy liquid is the emulsifier that binds butter and tomato into a glossy coating rather than a watery pool at the bottom of the bowl.

    Tip · Salt the pasta water until it tastes like a mild broth — this is the only chance to season the pasta itself.

  5. Pasta being tossed through glossy tomato sauce
    Step 53 minutes

    Toss hard, then finish with cheese and basil

    Add the drained pasta straight into the sauce over medium heat with a splash of the reserved water, and toss energetically for a minute. You will see the sauce tighten and cling to the ridges as the starch does its work.

    Off the heat, grate in parmesan and tear over basil. Serve immediately in warmed bowls — this sauce is at its best in the first two minutes after it meets the pasta.